To most folks in New Jersey,
Englisthown is a haven for redneck extremes—drag racing, funny cars, and
monster trucks. To Deadheads, especially those on the East Coast circa 1977 and
beyond, Englishtown is where their beautiful obsession with the band began, whether
the baptism was on the grounds of Raceway Park on September 3, 1977, or thru
the radio broadcast on that blessed evening, or sometime in the future via
bootleg tape or Dicks Picks Volume 15, the officially released three-CD set of
Englishtown.

My Englishtown tale began in 1981, two
months after John Lennon was gunned down on the outskirts of Central Park, and
a week after the attempted assassination of President Ronald Reagan. On that
fateful morning, I arrived at Clarkstown South High School and quickly spotted
the cat who sold the juiciest bones in town. On this morning he was also
selling bootleg tapes. He showed me an impressive list of shows by legendary
rockers, but one show leaped off the page: Grateful Dead at Raceway Park in
Englishtown, New Jersey. Although I didn’t know the song list or the quality of
the BASF tape, Englishtown was the tape I had to have, it was as if the tape chose
me.
As
a youth, I spent endless hours listening to New York’s top hit station,
Musicradio WABC. I used to hear Gladys Knight & the Pips, The Spinners,
Stevie Wonder, McCartney & Wings, Sly & the Family Stone, Elton John,
Marvin Gaye, David Bowie, The Eagles, America, Harry Chapin, Grand Funk
Railroad, Linda Ronstandt, and Paul Simon battle it out for top spot on the
charts week after week. Anyway, one of WABC’s top advertisers was Englishtown.
The commercial began with a helium infused voice: “Ha- ha-,ha-ho, Raceway Park,
Englishtown, New Jersey!” The follow up message talked of funny cars, drag
racing, and other arcane activities. Englishtown and the Grateful
Dead seemed like a fine connection, sure to arouse the ghosts of Old Weird
America.

I had recently started listening to
some Grateful Dead albums, but that morning, I was blown away by Englishtown’s
monumental “Mississippi Half Step.” The pre Rio Grande instrumental was the
greatest piece of improvisation I’d ever heard. After hearing Englishtown’s
radiant “Eyes of the World,” I finally understood why people considered Jerry
Garcia to be the greatest guitarist in the universe, and why Deadheads would
travel anywhere to see this band.
Looking back at the summer of ’77,
Englishtown could have been a disaster of Altamont proportions. Raceway Park
was only forty-five miles from New York City, which was suffering from an
overdose of the summertime blues. Son of Sam, the most feared serial killer of
his time, was firing lead into lovers making moves in parked cars, and taunting
police in the tabloids. The Bronx was burning from a never-ending series of
arson fires. The New York City blackout on July 13 triggered chaos and rioting
in the streets, and it exposed the rotten core of the Big Apple. In addition to
all the madness, the East Coast experienced one of the hottest summer’s on
record. With 150,000 restless stoners pouring into Englishtown on an
oppressively hot Labor Day weekend, and the Grateful Dead coming off of a
three-month touring hiatus, the outcome was highly uncertain.

Outside of a massive traffic mess that
forced concertgoers to park their cars several mile from Raceway Park, things
fell into place. Deadheads and Southern Rockers swayed and jammed as one as the
New Riders of Purple Sage and Marshall Tucker Band entertained. According to
most witnesses, a plethora of acid was available and consumed, but the first
hairy moment of the day was when a woman went into labor after the Marshall
Tucker Band performance. A helicopter was flown in to evacuate mom, and she
gave birth to a healthy baby boy.
It was still hot and humid when John
Scher introduced the headliners: “Okay. Here we go. On keyboards, Mr. Keith Godchaux.
On lead guitar, Jerry Garcia. On vocals, a very nice lady, Ms. Donna Jean Godchaux.
On drums and percussion, Mr. Bill Kreutzmann. On drums and percussion, Mr.
Mickey Hart. On rhythm guitar, Bob Weir. And on bass, Phil Lesh. Ladies and
gentleman, the finest band in the land, the Grateful Dead!”

After successfully going down the path
of least resistance with the first three songs, Bob Weir urges the surging
crowd to take a step back before the band bursts into “Mississippi Half Step.” There’s
a gleeful bubbling to Jerry’s voice, he’s reunited with one of the defining
masterpieces of the Grateful Dead’s remarkable ’77 run. The pre Rio Grande jam
is smoking with a pair of climatic peaks. Before returning to the bridge, Keith
begins to twinkle a lovely melody that captures Garcia’s fancy. Jerry responds
with robin-like tweets as Phil’s bass begins to rumble in the distance. The jam
escalates, but the band has the wisdom and good taste to reign the jam in
before it becomes overindulgent. It’s a sublime moment, and Englishtown roars
approval in unison. The perfectly harmonized Rio Grande bridge is pursued by an
ample outro solo. There was a myth that the Grateful Dead failed to rise to the
occasion on the biggest of stages. That myth was officially debunked by the
Englishtown “Half Step,” The other highlights of the first set were a two solo “Peggy
O,” and a hot “Music Never Stopped,” although it’s not one of the elite
versions of the year.

As the hippie throngs baked between
sets in Raceway Park, millions of Americans were preparing for an emotional
evening of television. The final episode of The
Mary Tyler Moore Show aired on this Sunday night. America had to kiss the somewhat
wholesome girl next door goodbye. In the world of popular music, Andy Gibb’s “I
Just Want to Be Your Everything” was dethroned from the top spot on the charts
by The Emotions’ “Best of My Love.” And with all the great albums available in
record shops, Barry Manilow Live was
the bestseller of the week. For those who preferred debauchery and improvisational
theater over American fluff and puff, the Grateful Dead took the stage for act
two in Englishtown.

Set two kicks off
with a turbocharged Bertha > Good Lovin, and during “Loser,” Garcia nails a
moaning blues solo that for all the ramblers and gamblers holding a losing
hand. Next up, Weir performs his new pride and joy, “Estimated Prophet,”
which segues into a stunning “Eyes of the World.” There are some better ’77
versions, but this “Eyes” is sophisticated and gorgeous. Garcia shines in his
less-is-more motif, and when he cuts loose, the impact is heavy. This is magic
and alchemy of the highest degree in front of an intimate gathering of 150,000.

The next great segment takes shape as
the band segues from “He’s Gone” into “Not Fade Away.” Let the cat and mouse
games commence. The jam slowly builds and retreats, two steps forward, one
back—one zig east, two zigs west. After the opening chorus, the music thunders,
intense and dark, until it morphs into a zone where fusion, funk, and heavy metal
grind. It’s as gnarly and gruff as the racetrack where Deadheads are still
sweating as nightfall descends. When the NFA journey recedes, Weir blows a
whistle to announce the first “Truckin’” in three years. For some of us tour
veterans who saw “Truckin’” every three nights for fifteen years straight, it’s
hard to imagine what a thrilling moment this was. Old school Deadheads fondly
embraced “Truckin’” as a gateway song to long mind-bending jams, and the new
wave of fans embraced this as the quintessential song from Skeletons in the Closet. And for historical purposes, the return of
“Truckin’” was another notch of distinction for a show that was an instant
classic.
After a long, hectic day, Englishtown
was revved up and begging for more. Jerry returned to thank the crowd, and Phil
bellowed, “All right! Woo-hoooo! Alright ladies and gentleman, we’d like to
play a little ditty from our newest album at your record stores currently.” Ah,
the gold ole days when we’d hustle on down to the local record shop and flip
through album bins. The “little ditty” Phil was referring to was “Terrapin
Station,” an heroic eleven minute encore. Showing no signs of weariness, Garcia
calls
upon the muses: “Inspiration, move me brightly. Light
the song with sense and color hold away despair. More than this I will not ask,
faced with mysteries dark and vast.”
As they reach the final stages of the
anthem, the crucial question is posed: “Terrapin, if it’s an end or beginning?”
It may have been the end of a colossal concert, but for the band and their
fans, it was the dawn of a new Dead era. With the mass exodus out of Raceway
Park underway, thousands upon thousands of fans marched to their cars as the
majestic “Terrapin” refrain echoed in the hot Jersey night. It was an
experience that any rookie or seasoned Deadhead would never forget. They would
pass on tales of this day to anyone who would listen. Being at Englishtown was
a badge of honor that they would wear
proudly. And as the radio and audience recordings
of this show multiplied, a new crop of Deadheads were ripe for picking.
Although Englishtown might not be the best show of the 1977, it’s one of the
defining events of Grateful Dead mythology. Before they stepped on stage, a
baby was busy being born in a sea of hippies. By the time they were finished
with Englishtown, the Grateful Dead had turned on a new generation of fans.
Terrapin Nation was busy being born.
For more on Englishtown and a year beyond description, check out:
Grateful Dead 1977: The Rise of Terrapin Nation